JAEGER-LECOULTRE has more than 100 years of history in watchmaking. You and I are not unfamiliar with the brand’s rich experience in the field of complex watchmaking, and the achievements of home-made ringing watches are particularly interesting. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Westminster Perpetual Calendar watch has been launched at the SIHH Geneva watch fair not long ago, and the brand launched the Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle in May 2019. It is worth noting that This is the first time that Jaeger-LeCoultre has developed a self-winding perpetual calendar + three-question function combination. At the same time, it uses a hidden automatic dial design and an innovative time-keeping gong mechanism, all showing the brand’s amazing watchmaking standards.
The outstanding traditional three-question master series perpetual calendar watch has an innovative gong system, which reproduces the pleasant bell sound of an antique self-sounding pocket watch, and is equipped with a revolutionary case design, showing a timeless and modern atmosphere.
The outstanding traditional three-question master series perpetual calendar watch represents a new generation of innovative bell designs from Jaeger-LeCoultre. The watch is equipped with a 950 automatic movement, which combines the two bell qualities that were difficult for the predecessors to possess—power and beauty. In the past, watchmakers always held a pessimistic attitude about asking the table music to be loud and melodious. They thought that the two could not be achieved at the same time, and they had to make a choice. But Jaeger-LeCoultre’s R & D and innovation team produced a distinctive new gong structure, creating a bell that meets both of these qualities. The gong of the watch is different from the common minute repeater gong. It is not placed on top of overlapping coils, but has thickness and space, which is very different from traditional styles. It is unprecedented.
Automatic winding and intuitive and easy-to-read perpetual calendar window layout to enhance the wearing experience
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s unique innovative sounding design, such as the square cross section of the gong and the articulated \\ ‘Trebuchet \\’ balance hammer, can ensure the maximum strength of the gong and reduce the interference caused by the rebound of the hammer to least. As a result, well-designed sounds were born. The gong of the bass is spiral from bottom to top, but the irregular shape is one-way flow. When it vibrates, it can emit harmonious overtones, making the bass full and balanced. While the treble will change direction when the treble, the main body can be folded, such as the bifurcation part of the tuning fork. This design emphasizes the vibration of the reed body, creating a more pure tone, giving a crisp tone to the high notes.
The 950 movement frees up the most space to enhance sound transmission. In addition, the gong is closer to the case, which further strengthens the conduction ability, because according to acoustic principles, people tend to place weaker sound sources directly near the resonance body, such as placing personal music players on glass plates to achieve the effect of sound reinforcement.
The perpetual calendar function of this watch is also very practical. The perpetual calendar can display the correct almanac information, distinguish the months with different days, and even the leap year, which is suitable for daily use by the wearer. The dial window near the hour and minute hands of the faceplate is equipped with an intuitive safety zone based on the needs of the wearer. This area is displayed between 10 pm and 1 am-during this time, the time or calendar cannot be adjusted, otherwise it may squeeze the movement or cause damage. This reminder allows the wearer not to worry about adjusting the time and the time period displayed on the calendar.
Compared to the gorgeous feel of the blue translucent enamel faceplate, the silver grain pattern has a neoclassical style, which looks delicate and timeless. The blue gongs around the faceplate also indirectly form a makeup effect.
Not only functional watches show coordinated power and beauty, the case has been completely redesigned and consists of 80 independent hand-finished parts. Jaeger-LeCoultre pays special attention to the ergonomic design of the case, which can be seen in the protruding convex bezel, the wide beveled edges on the lugs, and even the minute repeating minute slide buttons with smooth lines and gradually narrowing. Parts are also carefully polished, alternately polished, satin-finished, or sandblasted.
It is particularly difficult to apply sandblasting to the outside of the watch. Jaeger-LeCoultre uses traditional modification techniques, and the brand’s rare craft workshop has mastered superb technology, so that the sandblasted surface has both beauty and protection.
The watch is equipped with two dials, including a neoclassical silver grained dial and a dark blue translucent guilloché enamel dial hand-crafted in a rare craft workshop. The enamel will be polished to create a glittering blue faceplate like glass, showing different beauty with light and angle.
With this complicated combination and the movement picture exposed on the case back, we may intuitively think that it is a bracelet style. In fact, the automatic dial of the watch is sandwiched between the perpetual calendar and the minute repeater mechanism, so from the case back It seems that I can’t see the automatic disk, but I can clearly appreciate the complex structure and delicate decoration of the 950 movement.
Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle
Platinum material / 950 self-winding movement / hour, minute, date, day of the week, month, year display / minute repeat function / perpetual calendar function / lunar phase display / sapphire crystal, transparent bottom cover / water resistance 50 meters / diameter 43mm / Limited edition of 30 pieces / Reference price: 1,980,000 RMB
Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle
Platinum material / 950 self-winding movement / hour, minute, date, day of the week, month, year display / minute repeat function / perpetual calendar function / lunar phase display / sapphire crystal, transparent bottom cover / water resistance 50 meters / diameter 43mm / Limited edition of 30 pieces / Reference price: 1,750,000 RMB