The First Watch In Life, What Can I Buy?

As a child, sitting on the bluestone steps at the door, my father showed me a quartz watch with a moon phase. The small moon is hidden on the dial. Beauty is one aspect, more vivid. Interesting, even though the moon phase display of the mechanical watch is more complicated, for my childhood, this quartz seiko is enough to amaze me, leaving a deep obsession with the moon phase disk. When I grow up, I slowly save some money and want to find a ‘moon’ that really belongs to me. However, saving money is easy and difficult. Looking at some moon-phase watches, I always have the kind of heartbeat when I was young. It felt until I met this-Longines Master Series Moon Phase Watch.

Selected Brand


  For the Chinese, the Longines brand will probably know the name even if it doesn’t know much about watches. With a history dating back over 180 years, it has always been known for providing high-quality timepieces. Even for some models with complicated functions, the price is very affordable compared with the price of watches with the same performance. I will return it This is an economical mechanical timepiece.
  Speaking of which, it is estimated that some friends will ask where the benefits are, such as the exclusive cylindrical wheel movement used by Longines. Generally, the cylindrical wheel movement will be used on high-end chronograph watches. Short, so the price will be much higher than the cam movement, but Longines is currently the market’s lowest price column-wheel movement watch, the price is the highest.

  In addition to cost-effectiveness, I also pay more attention to the history of a brand. In fact, I have always known that Longines has a long history, but what surprised me even more is that it has more than 100 years of horse racing history. In fact, there are many other Cooperation and development history.
  This kind of brand history is very important. Just like Longines’s antique watches are very popular in the collection market, and through the iconic history of such a brand, we can quickly associate this brand. When we think of horse racing, Most friends who love watches will think of Longines. This traditional sense of activity is also very attractive to the Chinese market. Chinese people always like some products related to the design of time, history and culture. Of course, this is also That’s another reason why I am attracted to Longines.
Watch of choice
  To be honest, since the cost performance was mentioned first, it means that I still care about the price. The 25,000RMB moon phase watch has a good appearance and performance. In addition to the moon phase display function I love, the timekeeping and calendar display are also available, which completely attracts me such a long-cherished patient. Secondly, its appearance design is really conspicuous. When it is placed on the counter, it is the most elegant and elegant style. The most important thing is the hands-on effect. There is no feeling on the paper, but I can tell you that temperament men are really good. . Here is just to share some of my personal experience, it is best to go to the store to try it on.

  The polished stainless steel round case looks a lot brighter, with a diameter of 40 mm.

  Looking at the case from the side, the up and down timing buttons on the right are very textured. In addition to adjusting the time, the middle crown is pulled clockwise to correct the moon phase, counterclockwise to correct the date and month, and the day of the week needs to be adjusted by the button on the left. Longines provides a small button for the left button. The tool is used to operate the calibration.

  The white dial is decorated with wheat grains. This effect looks very textured, and it appears that the overall dial follows a low-key connotation line. The position at 12 o’clock is the date, day of the week, and month display, and the position at 9 o’clock is the small seconds dial and 24-hour indicator. The hour indication is also basically distinguished by people as the day and night display. At 6 o’clock, there is a moon phase display that I am very fond of. The overall function is complex and diverse, but it is evenly arranged and very beautiful.

  The watch is paired with a dark brown crocodile leather strap. The pressure-lined strap looks more retro and elegant. The stainless steel folding buckle set up above is relatively easy to operate, very strong and not easy to fall off by itself.

  The translucent design can be seen with Geneva stripes on the movement and a brushed design rudder. It is equipped with a Longines Cal.L678 movement, based on the ETA 7751 movement, with a diameter of 30 mm and a thickness of 7.9 mm. The number of oscillations per hour and the power reserve is 46 hours, which is enough considering that it is an automatic movement.

  This watch is very suitable for suits or long-sleeved shirts, but I wear casual clothes such as polo shirts every day, and they look very good. The value is everything, and delicate men can walk.
  The last choice for this watch is that its after-sales cost is still very affordable. Generally speaking, complicated timepieces are fragile and expensive to maintain, but Longines can provide customers with satisfactory services at a relatively low price. Sometimes, it is more expensive to maintain some mechanical watches than to maintain a car. Therefore, before choosing a watch, you still need to look at it comprehensively. Even if it becomes a tangled twist like me, don’t give yourself the first place in your life. Disappointed once!

Exquisite Watchmaking Craftsmanship Explore The True Meaning Of Time Cartier Watchmaking Makes The Moment Eternal

In this age dominated by machinery, only art by the hands of craftsmen can inject substance into clocks and watches. Cartier gives time perfect harmony with superb craftsmanship, transforming it into an art, injecting life into mechanical clocks.

  From July 19th to October 12th, 2014, the ‘Momentary Eternity-Cartier Time Art Exhibition’ held by Shanghai Museum of Contemporary Art perfectly witnessed Cartier’s deep historical heritage in the field of watchmaking. The exhibition leads visitors to the Cartier Watch Workshop in LaChaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, to appreciate the rich creativity and outstanding professional watchmaking craftsmanship.

  The long-lasting charm of Cartier watchmaking is not only the result of superb design and superb craftsmanship, but also a complementary and harmonious interpretation of the two. In addition to the fascination of mechanical clocks is reflected in the design, the vitality inherent in them is more closely related to our lives. It is this fusion of mysterious mechanical vitality and its external design that allowed Cartier to make the most of watchmaking craftsmanship, and in the unremitting exploration of the true meaning of time, it will instantly become eternal.

  Movement design

  Every year, Cartier Watch Workshop incorporates new complications into the creation of timepieces. The birth of an advanced watchmaking movement requires a long, complicated and rigorous research and development process, which perfectly integrates master craftsmanship and cutting-edge technology. The movement design not only requires impeccable function, but also needs to be the cornerstone of the watch design, so that the mechanical performance and aesthetic design of the watch can be perfectly combined. It takes several years for a complex-function movement to be fully worked out by the watch designer, and dozens of techniques are used by a number of experienced craftsmen before it can be finally formed. Designing and making a Cartier watch movement requires not only mastery of professional skills, but also profound refinement and elegance, both of which are indispensable.

Master watchmakers at the LaChaux-de-Fonds watch workshop

  It all starts with a flash of light. Movement designers first sketched their ingenuity with simple lines, and made hand-drawn sketches showing all the retouched details for the new mechanism. These planar sketches were then converted into 3D drawings of each component so that the watchmaker could check the feasibility of the design. Only on this basis can large solid models be made to verify the function of the entire movement. Then a series of movement prototypes are made and carefully inspected one by one to pass the final review.

Make large solid models to verify the functionality of the entire movement

  At each stage of the movement’s development, the movement design is continuously tested and improved based on the results of ergonomics, aesthetic modifications, and other quality control. The results reflect the philosophy that Cartier Watch Workshop has always upheld during the development of the movement-the perfect combination of mechanical performance and aesthetic design.

  Movement modification and assembly

  The hand finishing of the fine watchmaking movement gives each timepiece its unique charm. Before the final assembly, master craftsmen with superb finishing skills are responsible for decorating the movement in person. They uphold the tradition of craftsmanship over a century, using different tools and techniques to manually polish each part of the movement.

  Whether directly into the eyes or hidden in the dark, the exquisite decoration of the movement’s parts and components has made each fine watchmaking work unique and unique. The best way to fully appreciate the complexity of this decorative art is to appreciate the structure of each movement through the watchmaker’s magnifying glass. The table bridge is chamfered by a polishing machine. The fine file grinding on the side does not affect the polishing of the corners. At the same time, the surface of some specific parts needs to be mirror polished. Sometimes it takes fifteen hours to decorate a single component. In the ‘openwork’ movement like a miniature building, the precision and complexity of its craftsmanship are unparalleled.

Polishing the bridge with a polisher

  Watchmaking masters are like a conductor in a microcosm, assembling hundreds of parts by hand to give timepieces life. Only experienced and skilled watchmakers can create high-end watchmaking works. Because to assemble a complex function movement, you must be familiar with the function of each component. After decades of professional training, their accumulated experience enables them to master the various professional skills required for the assembly and adjustment of complex-function watches. Gears, ruby ​​bearings, escapement, screws and bridges, each component is carefully assembled in strict order to ensure the perfect operation of the movement.

Figure 7, Figure 8: The watchmaker completes the assembly of the movement components in a strictly controlled environment

  Mineral crystal mirror production

  As a master of styling watches, Cartier can make its own mineral crystal mirrors for watches. And this advantage has given Cartier more creative space. With its exquisite craftsmanship, mineral crystals have been crafted into a variety of complex shaped mirrors, paired with unique cases such as Crash, Tank Américaine or Tonneau watches.

Each mirror is hand-made and heated with a welding gun at 600 degrees until a perfect curve is formed

Each mirror is hand-made and heated with a welding gun at 600 ° C until a perfect curve is formed. Masters of craftsmanship rely on a pair of smart eyes to control the shape, and judge the quality of the work based on the reflection effect on the mirror surface. Subsequently, the outer surface of the mirror surface was manually polished to remove burrs and smooth the edges, making it easier for the mirror surface to be embedded in the case.

  Pointer making

  Making slim hands requires extra care, ingenuity, and sensitivity. The pointers come in a variety of shapes, including sword-shaped, apple-shaped, diamond-shaped, or hammer-shaped. Blue steel hands first appeared in Cartier’s work in the early 20th century. They have two thicker apple-shaped and sword-shaped shapes, and have been used ever since. Each pointer is cut by a high-precision punch, arranged by hand one by one, and then heated at a high temperature of 340 degrees to obtain the blue steel effect that Cartier loves. If the heating time or temperature is slightly different, the coloring process must be repeated again.

Blue steel hands first appeared in Cartier’s work in the early 20th century. Santo-Dumont watch, Cartier Paris, 1912

  Dial making

 The manufacturing process of the dial is self-contained, often involving mysterious craftsmanship passed down from generation to generation. Cartier is good at creating a variety of enamel crafts on the guilloche chassis. It is called the guilloche master of art. This aesthetic design is often used to decorate the dial of watches. Cartier has introduced small table clocks with enamel dials since 1909. Following this tradition, the production of such dials requires extremely rare techniques. First, the dial’s metal base is engraved with a radial pattern and an arc-shaped guilloche pattern called flinqué, followed by a translucent enamel layer. During firing, temperature control affects the entire process. At this stage, any mistake will cause irreparable damage to the dial, which cannot be used but can only be scrapped.

  In addition, iconic symbols such as the minute track, Roman numerals, and secret signatures make Cartier’s dial visible at a glance. Silver-plated, sunray-patterned, grained, engraved, inlaid with gemstones or mother-of-pearl, allows the dial to carry the brand’s endless creativity.

  Cartier has been known for its sophisticated watchmaking skills since it began making watches in 1853. The relentless pursuit of excellence and perfection has made Cartier’s timepieces show an extraordinary level of mechanical production and a high level of aesthetic and artistic accomplishments. Cartier’s designers, watchmakers and craftsmen have created a unique and unique Cartier watch through the perfect control of every detail such as the movement, mirror, dial and hands.

  ‘Ephemeral · Eternal-Cartier Time Art Exhibition’ leads visitors to explore Cartier’s historical heritage, extraordinary aesthetics, excellent craftsmanship and breakthrough innovation in the field of watchmaking through more than 180 precious timepieces that span more than a century. This is also the first time Cartier has showcased its masterpieces of mechanical timepieces in China. The exhibition also invites watchmakers from the Swiss Watch Workshop of Cartier to showcase a variety of rare and exquisite watchmaking craftsmanship.

Exhibition Information

Pavilion: Shanghai Contemporary Art Museum, 7th floor (200 Huayuangang Road, Shanghai)
Duration: July 19-October 12, 2014
Opening hours: 11: 00-19: 00 (closed at 18:00), closed on Mondays

Master watchmaking craftsmanship

Movement assembly July 18-July 20; gem setting August 14-August 16
Movement assembly August 21 – August 23; movement chamfering September 4 – September 6
Movement assembly September 18-September 20; enamel craft October 2-October 4